23. Island Wrap-up

Now that the trip is complete, it’s hard to think how those days went by so quickly. We did get to visit the Iolani Palace on our last free day, and then walked across the street to the Municipal Building where the King Kamehameha statue stands as one of the familiar landmarks of Honolulu. Since being home, we have enjoyed watching the “Hawaii 50” television program for its spectacular scenery, and the memories of having just seen many of those sights in recent days. The tour of the Palace was bittersweet as we reflected on the last days of the Hawaiian monarchy. The palace displayed many advanced features for the time period of the late-1800s, such as electricity. We also realized how so many international heads of state had visited the Palace while recognizing the legitimacy of the Hawaiian Kingdom, prior to the annexation of the territory by the United States, and the abolishment of the Kingdom, along with much of the ancient Hawaiian culture. Fortunately, there has been a resurgence of appreciation of the Hawaiian culture and many of the art forms, including their language, that are finding their way back into modern cultural awareness. The friendliness of the locals, and the spirit of aloha, is the most dominant characteristic I found in our movement around the two islands we visited. A sense of OHANA – loosely translated as family – permeates so much of the life of the people, especially those who retain a kinship with the ancient Hawaiian ancestry. That spirit was captured beautifully by one of the locals who said, “We try to make room for everybody.” My response was that the world would be a saner and safer place, if everyone could live like that! After our short visit back in Honolulu, and a last dinner overlooking Waikiki Beach at sunset, we made our way to Los Angeles, where we stayed for 2 nights, awaiting our final return flights to Richmond. It was good to begin to make the body clock adjustment to mainland time, recognizing that we still had another 3 hour differential to account for once back in Virginia. From our Manhattan Beach hotel, we drove down the Pacific Coast Highway to Redondo Beach and Palos Verdes, which seems like something we do whenever we have time in this part of Southern California. The weather was anything but tropical, as Fall was already in the air. The ocean was not inviting, and I found the need to buy a jacket, since I had not thought about such a need as we planned for our tropical adventure before leaving. We returned to our favorite Mexican restaurant, Pancho’s, in Manhattan Beach, and enjoyed our last vacation dinner before our return on Thursday. Our final travel day was uneventful, as we flew to Chicago, then to Richmond, and were home before midnight. The trip was fantastic, but the old saying is true, there is no place like home. It’s good to get to sleep in our own bed again. Thanks for following along. So long for now.

22. Return to Honolulu

On Saturday, we made our way back to Kahului to return the rental car and board the Hawaiian Airlines plane for the short flight to Honolulu. As soon as we landed, we heard a news report that the first humpback whale sighting of the new whale season had occurred near the small island of Molokini. We recalled that we had just driven past a clear view of Molokini on our way to the Kahului airport, but we had missed seeing the whale. Every year, the whales from Alaska return to these waters, in an annual migration to the whale playground in the same waters we had enjoyed for the past two weeks as well. We checked into our Wyndham condo in Waikiki, located in the newly developed Beachwalk area, located near the Halekulani Resort and the Trump Tower of Waikiki. It is also just one block from the beach, near Fort DeRussy. It is a very convenient location, especially since Cynthia and Lorita can easily walk the three blocks to the International Market. Before our arrival, Cynthia had contacted her friend Michelle, who had worked with her at the Boy Scout office in Richmond prior to Cynthia’s retirement. Michelle and her husband John have been stationed here at Pearl Harbor for the past few years. So they drove into Waikiki to have lunch with us, and then drove us to see the area where they live near Waikele, located upcountry beyond Pearl Harbor. It was a special treat, especially since Cynthia and Michelle have remained in contact by email and phone calls since their move to Hawaii. We were pleased to hear that John’s job has not been impacted by the current government shutdown, although we were saddened to learn that the USS Arizona Memorial has been closed since the shutdown. It seems such a senseless development for the many people who have traveled here hoping to see that impressive memorial, only to be disappointed. We are so grateful we were able to visit the memorial together on the front end of our Hawaiian adventure. Another sad development is the need to begin making preparations for our departure on Tuesday. We have plans to visit the Iolani Palace tomorrow, on Monday, for one last sightseeing event. We saw the pictures taken by Mary Etta and Chester during their earlier visit before our arrival, so now we are looking forward to a similar experience, exploring the Palace that was the home of Hawaiian Royalty prior to the annexation of these islands by the United States. So, stay tuned . . .

21. Parasailing

A highlight of any such vacation is the opportunity to enjoy the experience of parasailing. It’s been five years since the last time, but it is still as exhilarating as any outdoor or water sport that I have ever enjoyed. The sensation of floating in air, suspended only by the parasail, is an awesome experience. Surrounded by silence, except for the flutter of the parachute, the view of the surrounding islands, and the bright blue water below is an experience that is hard to describe in words. This year, the experience was enhanced when the boat captain sighted a pod of dolphins swimming in our direction. They were huge, possibly ten or twelve feet in length, and numbering in the scores. We saw at least twenty or thirty, and likely there were many more unseen below the surface. They jumped out of the water and some even twirled in the style of spinner dolphins. The boat captain said they were surfing in our wake, and playing and swimming all around our boat. While parasailing, both Lorita and I had excellent views of the animals swimming below. It was a definite added bonus treat to our scheduled parasailing session.

20. Second Week in Maui

Our second week on Maui was spent enjoying the pool, swimming and snorkeling in the ocean, and spending evenings in Lahaina and the Whaler’s Village shopping complex. We made our way back to Leilani’s Restaurant a couple more times before leaving Maui. It is such a winsome setting, and the meals are both very good and also reasonably priced. We also made another visit to the Sheraton Black Rock, to snorkel alongside the outcropping of black lava that is the signature trademark of the Sheraton hotel. The hotel is built into the lava hillside, with several units perched atop the huge black Rock. One night, while the Browns were still on the island with us, we made our way to the Black Rock just at sunset. Every evening, a Hawaiian makes his way running through the hotel grounds lighting the torches for the evening. Then he carries his torch up the side of the black rock, goes out to the extremity, bows to the four compass points, throws his lei into the ocean, tosses his torch in a different direction and then dives into the surf where he had just tossed the lei. It is a very beautiful tradition, and crowds gather each evening to await the spectacle just as the sun falls into the ocean in the distance behind the diver. The sunset ceremony is but one more of the traditions and memories that linger long after one’s departure from these islands. It is no wonder to me that these islands are one of the most popular vacation destinations in all the world. The leisure week also allowed for keeping up with church e-mails and updating this blog on an occasional basis, to capture our memories of this very special vacation. It is amazing to us both that the last time we made this journey, it was only a few days after Cynthia’s retirement from the Boy Scout Council office in Richmond. We wonder how the past five years could have passed so swiftly, even as we feel the same way about the past two weeks of this vacation travel.

19. Another Saturday and Sunday in Lahaina

On Saturday at the airport, John replaced the larger Dodge van for a “smart” car (a Nissan sedan, NOT the small European car by the same name). It was a push-button-start vehicle, and it was so smart, I could not figure out how to lock the car when I stopped for some groceries near the airport. I quickly realized that, with no ignition key, I would not be able to open the door if I locked and closed it. So I returned to the airport Avis rental facility to admit that the car was smarter than I was. The agent found the remote that had been hidden in the console, so all was well at that point. I returned to Lahaina, and we settled into our shared room with Lorita, since our Maui Westin condo was not available till Sunday. It was a convenient arrangement, since her condo had to be vacated on Friday at the end of the week, and we had not planned to leave Maui until Saturday. So we will work out a trade-off that meets both our need. Later that night, we stayed at the resort and shared a dinner at the poolside restaurant. On Sunday morning, John wanted to visit another island church worship service. Since the Methodist Church was a bit closer, another very meaningful service of worship was observed. A most interesting feature was the closing “Fellowship Circle.” After the Benediction, the Pastor invited everyone to form a circle around the sanctuary. Then he and two other musicians stood in the center of the room with ukuleles while another worship leader stood at the pulpit with her ukulele. The congregation proceeded to sing a Hawaiian hymn, in the Hawaiian language. The words were printed in the bulletin, along with the English translation, but it was obvious that the local people knew the words and sang them with great feeling, with no bulletins evident in their hands. The lilting melody was consistent with many of the traditional Hawaiian songs that we have grown to love over the years. But the message of the hymn was a most meaningful way to conclude the service. Then, at the last phrase, everyone lifted their hands into the air, lifting even the hands of the visitors as well. It was a very memorable experience. The bulletin is already packed away, but I am looking forward to recalling the words (in English) of that closing hymn.

18. Last Night in Lahaina

On Friday night, we returned to Lahaina for dinner and a stroll along the streets at night. The town is really very beautiful with the torches all up and down Front Street, with some shops and restaurants overhanging the seawall, and other areas open to the sea, with only an occasional palm tree to add to the beauty of the waterfront setting. Before dinner, we made our initial visit to Hilo Hattie’s, which is a general store with many logo items displaying the distinctive Hilo Hattie logo. The brand began with a store in Honolulu where a large area was given over to a sewing room floor. We remember several years ago when tourists could peer into the sewing room and see approximately a hundred women sitting at sewing machines, making the bright floral print dresses and men’s shirts that reflect the classic Hawaiian imagery of flowers, palm trees and islands. It seems that everyone that comes to the islands ends up with at least one of the colorful prints. The women are no longer on display in the Honolulu store, but now the clothing items, and many other general store items fill their shelves, like coffee, calendars, macadamia nuts, chocolates, and many other souvenir items. And the stores have popped up in virtually all the major islands. Mary Etta and Chester found a jewelry counter that interrupted our dinner quest, and after her purchase, and Chester’s “fishing” for an oyster that yielded a “double pearl” discovery inside, we made our way to the wharf, where we enjoyed our dinner at Captain Jack’s restaurant. Our outdoor balcony table overlooked the Pioneer Inn, a 19th century hotel on the waterfront, that has been converted into a modern hotel for those who desire to stay in the middle of the old whaling village. The night-time setting accented by torchlight up and down the street, made for an impressive last night in Lahaina, at least for the Browns. Tomorrow would find them making our way to the airport, but not before another brief daytime walk through the streets of Lahaina. Daytime is a very different experience in the town of Lahaina, but the tourists are just as numerous as at night. And the view of the neighboring islands of Lanai and Molokai make for a picture postcard image to keep in memory long after one’s departure. Cynthia and Lorita enjoyed a day by the pool at the Westin resort, while John drove the Browns back to the airport, sent them on their way, changed the van for a sedan rental car and then returned to West Maui for another week of ocean fun and relaxation.

17. Maui Tropical Plantation

On Friday, Chester joined the other three of us for a visit to the Maui Tropical Plantation, while Mary Etta continued her Oceanside R & R in her hotel . The Plantation is located near the town of Wailuku, on Maui. It is situated in the Valley Region of the island, and is surrounded by fertile, green fields of sugar cane. The visitor attraction displays a variety of palm trees, pineapple fields, and many types of tropical flora. The highlight of the visit is a narrated tram ride back into the working fields of the plantation. At one stop, we saw coconut trees being pruned back to avoid the potential damage from falling coconuts. We learned that a property owner is responsible if a falling coconut falls on someone else’s car, or other property, so it is important for the trees to be frequently pruned. The narrator also demonstrated the practice of coconut husking and then cracking open the actual coconut inside the outer shell. The tram ride also included an amazing display of whole fields of tropical fruits, nuts, flowers and other vegetation. Following the visit to the Plantation, we made our way down to the harbor village of Maalea to have lunch before returning to the resort area of West Maui. The General Store also featured a local deli and sandwich shop. So we shared our lunch on the front porch, overlooking the Maui Coast Guard Station and the large number of fishing boats tied up in the marina. The prevalence of boats and water sports and attractions is no surprise on these islands. It seems that water is everywhere, and surely it is the basis for much of the tourism that is at the heart of the economy of these islands.

16. Old Lahaina Luau

Our night at the Old Lahaina Luau was Thursday night. We met at the appointed time, and were given a flower lei, and escorted to our table, which was a super location very near the stage. While it was still daylight, we strolled along the waterfront, which provided the backdrop for the arena-like stage and dinner complex. Here, several crafters were demonstrating their crafts of wood carving, jewelry making, and other island specialties. Photo opportunities were plentiful as everyone wanted a picture under the palm trees by the water, especially as the sun fell behind the horizon. Following an announcement, everyone crowded around the Imu Pit, where the Kalua Pig had been roasting since early morning. The animal is covered in banana leaves, placed over hot lava rocks, and covered with burlap, before being covered with sand to roast during the day. Two young men, in a ceremony obviously familiar to them, began to dig up the pig with great fanfare in front of all the guests. After the meat is taken to the two buffet stations, we were called by table to fill our plates with a great variety of Polynesian dishes, including the obligatory bowl of poi, at the end of the line. Poi is a tasteless substance, somewhat like mashed potatoes, that was a staple of the ancient Hawaiian diet. It could be mixed with any number of other foods, and flavors, to extend the quantity of whatever was being served, although it is not very appetizing by itself. While we have tasted poi on earlier luaus, most of our group just passed on this occasion. During the meal, accompanied by a group of Hawaiian singers on the bandstand, an occasional solo hula dancer gracefully moved about the stage. After the meal, the stage was filled with a colorful company of male and female dancers who provided an evening of entertainment. They demonstrated the many different styles of hula dancing which have come from many of the islands and cultures of the South Pacific. The event is truly a feast in every sense of the word.

15. Journey to the Top of Maui

On Thursday, I drove Mary Etta and Chester to the top of Mt. Haleakala to visit the dormant volcano crater. It is a huge territory that is managed by the National Park Service and covers the upper elevations of one of the two volcanic mountains that make up the bulk of the land mass of the island of Maui. Since Cynthia and Lorita had visited the mountain-top before, they decided to pass on the drive up the winding road that ends at the summit almost two miles above the ocean surrounding the island. The summit posts an elevation of 10,023 feet, and, as a result is really quite cold. We found temperatures in the mid-fifties, but compared with the sunny beach days down below, it really did seem rather cold. Warning signs posted around the Observation point suggested walking slowly due to the altitude. The crater is the focal point of the summit, and often is closed in by the clouds that frequently cover the entirety of the mountain peak. However, as we arrived, there was an opening in the cloud cover, and a large area of the crater became visible for a very few minutes. Soon the entire crater was only a blur of moisture as the cloud covered the viewing area. Then as we began our descent, we stopped at the next to highest viewing area, and once again, the clouds rolled back just long enough for Chester and I to see some of the boulders and vent mounds on the floor of the crater, before the cloud moved back across our viewing overlook. We then began to re-trace our curvy, winding road back down the mountain to the level valley below. While visiting the Park Ranger’s Office and Visitor Center near the mountain top, one of the resident rangers gave us a short lecture demonstration of the silversword plant, which only grows at the highest altitude on the peak of Mt. Haleakala. It blossoms just before it dies, and we saw several of the unusual plants, with huge blossoms, scattered around the observation point at the summit. It seems very strange that these plants can be found in no other part of the world than in the Hawaiian Islands. We were also treated to one sighting of the Nene, a goose-like bird that also is found only in the Hawaiian Islands. It is also known as the Hawaiian Goose, and has been named the State Bird of Hawaii. The day did provide a cold change from our very warm days in Hawaii. The Upcountry of Maui has many different rural farms, including cattle, horses, lavender and protea farming, which we saw, as well as surely many other tropical flower farms, and even a winery that were not visible on the road to Mt. Haleakala. Halfway down the mountain, we stopped for a rest stop at the Kula Lodge and Restaurant. An outlet for a protea farm, “Proteas of Hawaii,” was located next door. As we admired the flowers, the attendant offered to give us two bouquets of proteas for our hotel rooms, so we have had fresh flowers in our rooms ever since. On departure from Maui, Mary Etta and Chester gave their bouquet to Lorita, so we both still have live flowers in our rooms for a beautiful tropical accent. As we reached the fertile valley between the two dormant volcanoes of Maui (thus the island’s nickname is “The Valley Isle”), we saw huge green fields of sugar cane. While not the vibrant industry it once was for these islands and their economy, there are still many acres still in production. We saw some of the heavy machinery used to transport the cane, after the green leafy tops are burned away, as the cane is moved to processing plants to produce both sugar and molasses. After the lengthy ride up and down the mountain, there was just enough time to squeeze in a bit of rest before our next island adventure, attending the Old Lahaina Luau. Stay tuned for that discussion in the next update.

14. Another Day in Maui

We were pleased that Mary Etta seemed to be coming out of the fog on Wednesday. So she and Chester joined us at the Marriott during the afternoon. We found a shady spot for them, since sun does not mix well with many medicines, and we proceeded to enjoy the pool, the cool water grotto behind the man-made waterfall, and of course the waterslide. Each time we are here, I find it interesting that there is a constant stream of young children going up the stairs and down the waterslide, but after Cynthia and I join in the fun, soon there are a number of other grown-ups getting in on the fun as well. And Lorita seems to enjoy it as much as we do. Later in the afternoon, we found another location on the lawn, overlooking the water and the island of Lanai across the way. So we continued to relax on the grounds until almost sunset. We decided to have our dinner at the nearby Leilani’s restaurant, so we arrived just in time to be seated at an oceanfront table, just as the sun dropped behind Lanai. We have some wonderful sunset pictures to go with the memories of a very good meal in one of the most beautiful spots on earth, at least in my opinion. It was such a treat to have us all together around a Hawaiian dinner table again. After the meal, we strolled through the Whaler’s Village Shopping Center with its variety of boutiques, shops and other restaurants. The centerpiece of the center is a huge skeleton of a humpback whale that can be walked all the way around. The placard indicated what the entire mammal would have looked like with its flesh intact. The creature was at least 10 yards in length, indicating what a huge animal it was when it was alive. We walked back to the Marriott, where the car was parked. The walkway processes in front of all the hotels of the Kaanapali Beach Resort, located on either side of the centrally located Whaler’s Village Shopping Center. The torch-lit walkway, alongside the variety of waterfront hotels makes for a dramatic ending to an evening of island relaxation. The J.Mann Taxi service returned Lorita and the Browns to our lodging places to await a new day tomorrow.

13. Another Day in Paradise!

Tuesday, we awoke to another phone call from the Browns, indicating that Mary Etta was even more uncomfortable than the previous day. They had located a Doctors On Call location, so I met them with the car, and realized that the address for the medical facility was in the Hyatt Hotel, located immediately next door to our Maui Marriott in the Kaanapali Resort area. After striking up an Egyptian conversation with the Physician who had been to Egypt, Mary Etta was treated, and prescribed some medication that we easily secured at a local Walgreen’s. While the Browns hibernated in their 12th floor hotel room, the other three of us went on an excursion to the south end of Maui. Lorita had read of the display of a spectacular piece of glass artwork currently located in the Waldorf Astoria Wailea Grand Hotel. So we drove to the village of Kihei on our way to the hotel. We stopped by the very old Maui Lu resort hotel in Kihei, where we stayed on our very first visit to Hawaii with John and Krista in 1988. We had planned to celebrate our 20th wedding anniversary with the trip, although it turned out to be a 21st year celebration with a family trip to the four main islands of Hawaii. After lunch in Kihei, we located the very upscale Waldorf Astoria Hotel, and Lorita and Cynthia visited the art gallery and took several pictures of the colorful glass sculpture. After returning to the town of Lahaina, we spent the evening walking the length of Front Street with its many boutiques, art galleries and restaurants. We found an eatery named “Cool Cats” and enjoyed our dinner in an upstairs, open-air setting overlooking the huge Banyan tree that is the primary landmark of this former whaling town.

12. Monday in Maui

Monday on vacation is always a treat, since it is nothing like Monday in the REAL WORLD. After sleeping till wake up time, and then enjoying a leisurely breakfast, the challenging decision of the morning is what to do next. That question was answered this time by a phone call from Mary Etta and Chester, indicating that Mary Etta needed to find a doctor for some upper respiratory difficulty. We found a medical clinic not far from where we were staying, so the J.Mann Taxi Service came to the rescue. While the Browns stayed in for the rest of the day (while looking at a beautiful view of the islands of Lanai and Molokai across a stretch of beautiful blue Pacific water), Cynthia, Lorita and I spent the day enjoying the grounds of the Maui Marriott. The various swimming pools and the waterslide, surrounded by swaying palm trees, make the waterfront location a picture postcard setting for reading and relaxing. For dinner, we went to the Whaler Village Shopping Center located several hotels down the beach from our resort. Leilani’s on the Beach has a waterfront seating area with a perfect view of the sunset across the water. As the sun drifted down behind the island of Lanai, we enjoyed our outdoor meal in a setting that is hard to describe in words.